Toubkal, also known as Jabal Toubkal or Jebel Toubkal, is the highest peak not only in Morocco but in all of North Africa. It rises to an impressive height of 4,167 meters above sea level and is located in the central part of the High Atlas range.
Toubkal is located about 60 kilometers southwest of Marrakesh and is one of the most important destinations on Africa’s trekking map. Its majestic silhouette rises above rocky valleys and villages, as well as the Imlil Valley, creating a landscape that blends the ruggedness of the mountains with the exotic charm of North Africa. Reaching the summit is a dream for many mountain enthusiasts who wish to combine adventure with discovering Berber culture and the raw beauty of Moroccan landscapes.
In 2023, we conquered the highest peak in Southern Africa (and the entire continent) – Kilimanjaro – and Toubkal completed our “crown” of Africa. Below, you can read about how we reached the summit, what’s worth keeping in mind, and what awaits you along the route.
HOW TO CLIMB TOUBKAL – PRACTICAL INFORMATION
PHYSICAL PREPARATION BEFORE THE EXPEDITION
Although climbing Toubkal doesn’t require any technical mountaineering skills, physical fitness plays a key role. It’s worth preparing in advance by regularly hiking in the mountains, jogging, doing Nordic walking, or engaging in cardio workouts. The ascent to over 4,000 meters is a challenge, especially due to the altitude and thin air. It’s therefore advisable to plan at least one acclimatization day at the refuge to minimize the risk of altitude sickness. That’s why two days for the expedition are the absolute minimum.
2 / 3 OR 5-DAY EXPEDITION ?
Expeditions to Jebel Toubkal can vary in length depending on participants’ fitness levels, travel goals, and interest in exploring the region. Here’s a full overview of the most popular options:
- 2 DAYS – for those in good shape with limited time.
- 3 DAYS – ideal for most trekkers who want to combine the climb with a more relaxed pace.
- 4–6 DAYS – for those seeking the full High Atlas experience. This option includes Toubkal plus several neighboring four-thousanders. Another great alternative is trekking through the Azzaden Valley — a less-traveled route offering stunning views.
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO CLIMB TOUBKAL ?
The best time to climb Toubkal is in spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October), when conditions are most stable and temperatures are moderate. Summer can be extremely hot in the valleys, while in winter the summit is covered with a thick layer of snow, attracting fans of winter trekking and ski touring.
A GUIDE IS MANDATORY! WHERE AND HOW TO HIRE ONE ?
Since 2018, climbing Toubkal has been allowed only in the company of a licensed guide. The Moroccan authorities introduced this requirement to ensure the safety of tourists after a series of incidents (including murders) in the region. A guide can easily be hired in Imlil, where many certified offices and local agencies operate. Hiring one also supports the local Berber community, as most guides come from nearby villages, and tourism is often the main source of income for their families.
During the high season, it’s best to arrange a guide in advance, as accommodation in the refuge can be hard to find. A local guide can also help you book a spot at the refuge right away. We found our guide through a Moroccan Facebook group about two weeks before our trip. He works with a group of friendly cousins who are also licensed guides.
Facebook page: Trip Toubkal Mount. Phone / WhatsApp: +212 658-240263
COST OF THE EXPEDITION
Hiring a licensed guide including transport from Marrakesh (and back), accommodation at the refuge, and meals along the route costs around €350 for two people (approximately €175 per person). When planning your trip, it’s reasonable to assume a budget of about €160–200 per person for a classic 2-day expedition. If you plan a longer trek, prefer higher-standard accommodation, or go during the winter season, the cost may be significantly higher. Payment is made directly to the guide for the entire package (euros are preferred).
WHAT TO PACK?
The gear needed for Toubkal depends on the season, but your basic equipment should include:
- Passport – required for checks at the park entrance and the refuge
- Comfortable, spacious backpack
- Trekking boots with good grip
- Warm clothing – temperatures at the summit often drop below zero, even in summer
- Windproof / waterproof jacket
- Hat, gloves, and sunglasses
- Headlamp – the summit push starts before dawn
- Sunscreen (UV protection) – the valley is fully exposed to the sun
- Light, high-energy snacks for the summit ascent
- At least 2 liters of water per day (you can buy more at the refuge, but not always reliably)
- Trekking poles – especially useful on the descent to reduce strain on your knees
In winter, be sure to bring crampons, an ice axe, and trekking poles, snow and ice can make the final section challenging. Important: Water along the route is not safe to drink, so you must carry bottled water.
At the refuge, it’s useful to have:
- Light, waterproof slippers – outdoor shoes are not allowed inside the refuge
- Towel and toiletries – there are showers with hot water
- Power bank – there are no charging options at the refuge
- Light sleeping bag or sheet – pillows and blankets are provided, and it’s usually warm at night
- Earplugs – quiet hours start around 9 p.m., but due to the altitude, many people get up during the night to use the restroom, so it’s never completely silent
Note: You can leave some of your belongings at the refuge before the summit ascent, anything you won’t need for the climb. However, keep in mind that rooms are not locked, so you leave your items at your own risk.
It’s also worth thinking about a first aid kit, which should include:
- The medications you normally take
- Medicine for diarrhea and probiotics
- Altitude sickness medication – take Diamox (Diuramid) only if you’ve already felt weakness or headaches on the way to the refuge; taking it right before the summit ascent is not effective
THE ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT – STEP BY STEP
TRANSFER MARRAKESH – IMLIL
The ascent of Toubkal is best started from Marrakesh. It’s worth spending a few days there first to acclimatize to the local environment, both in terms of culture and local flora and fauna. If you don’t have transport arranged, buses and taxis run daily from Marrakesh to the village of Imlil, known as the gateway to the High Atlas Mountains.
The journey takes about two hours and is an experience in itself. The landscape gradually transforms from the bustle of the city into peaceful mountain valleys, eventually leading along dramatic cliffside roads.
IMLIL VILLAGE – THE START OF THE TREK
The end of Imlil village, where the trek begins, lies at an altitude of about 1,900 meters above sea level, this is your starting point. On the same day, you’ll face an ascent of roughly 1,300 meters to reach the Toubkal Refuge (Refuge du Toubkal). The entire route is about 11 kilometers long and leads through the picturesque Mizane Valley. It starts with a flat, rocky section, which can turn into a wide stream after heavy rainfall.
PARK BORDER AND CHECKPOINT
About 1.5 kilometers further, you’ll reach the first stop. According to park regulations, everyone entering the area must be registered and logged. The authorities check not only your personal details but also confirm that you are accompanied by a licensed guide.
THE BEGINNING OF THE ASCENT
The trail continues steadily uphill, though it’s not too steep at this stage. You’ll pass the last cypress trees, the only tall vegetation that grows naturally here. Higher up, you’ll encounter only grasses and thistles.
THE FIRST MOUNTAIN SHOP
Along the route, you’ll find a few small mountain shops where you can buy souvenirs, but more importantly, enjoy a glass of fresh juice. There’s no need to worry about hygiene here; the fruits are washed in running water and pleasantly chilled. Such a juice offers both refreshment and a great energy boost. From this point onward, you’ll be walking entirely in the sun, with no shade at all. The first shop sits at around 2,200 meters, and the last one at about 2,800 meters.
ASCENT – CONTINUED
This section is particularly scenic and still relatively gentle. However, you’ll need to stay alert for mule caravans carrying supplies up to the refuge. The mules always have right of way, and it’s essential to step toward the mountain slope, not the edge, fully loaded animals can easily knock someone off balance near the cliffs.
BERBER VILLAGE SIDI CHAMHAROUCH AND LUNCH
The first longer break is planned in a charming village by a river and small waterfalls. It’s the largest Berber settlement in the area, featuring a small refuge, the Sidi Chamharouch teahouse, and several other spots where you can grab a meal or drink.
At one of these spots, we stop for a delicious lunch consisting of tagine, fresh salads, and traditional mint tea.
THE HOLY PLACE OF THE DJINN
It’s hard to believe, but such places truly exist. In the village of Sidi Chamharouch, there is a sacred site that for centuries has inspired both curiosity and reverence among local Berbers and visiting travelers. You can spot it from afar a white boulder painted with lime, standing among stones and a mountain stream. This is the tomb of Sidi Chamharouch, a Muslim saint (marabout), who according to local belief was the king of the djinn, supernatural beings from Arab and Berber folklore. According to legend, Chamharouch was a powerful djinn who dwelled in the Atlas Mountains and guarded them from evil forces. Over time, people began to believe that his spirit could heal, protect from misfortune, and remove curses. Even today, pilgrims from all over Morocco come here seeking help, especially for health or family matters. They make offerings of food, candles, money, or incense, asking for blessings and protection. Some pilgrims stay nearby for several days, performing traditional prayers and rituals under the guidance of local marabouts, spiritual guardians of the shrine.
STEEP ASCENT
Right after the village begins the least pleasant section of the route, a steep ascent under full sun exposure, with clouds of dust stirred up by the passing mule caravans. The only consolation is the stunning view of the village below, the surrounding rocky cliffs, and the feeling of quickly gaining altitude.
THE LAST MOUNTAIN SHOP
Along the way, you’ll pass two more small shops. The last one, definitely worth a stop for another delicious juice, sits at an altitude of about 2,800 meters.
CROSSING THE 3,000-METER MARK
Now there are only about 400 vertical meters left to climb. The trail is no longer as steep, so progress is slower, but the breathtaking, almost dreamlike views all around make the effort much more enjoyable.
THE REFUGE
After about 6 hours of ascent (at a relaxed pace with long breaks), we reach the refuge at around 3,200 meters. There are three refuges in the valley, each with different conditions, standards, and prices. You don’t have control over the booking, as each guide works with a specific refuge.
We check in at the logbook and are assigned our double bed (unfortunately on a bunk, which can be tricky at night). The room will eventually hold 18 people from around the world. Outside, the valley has already fallen into shadow, making it instantly very cold, while the last rays of the sun still illuminate the highest surrounding peaks.
Now it’s time for a shower. You’ll likely have to wait in a long queue, but it’s worth it! Afterwards, a delicious cup of tea with traditional mountain popcorn and shortly after, we’re invited to the main dining room for dinner, which consists of soup and tagine. Here at the refuge, the food is less tasty than on the trail. After dinner, there’s not much to do, just brush your teeth and stretch your back. Unfortunately, as usual for me, difficulty falling asleep, the altitude, and the large amount of fluids consumed earlier result in frequent trips to the toilet, which is two floors down in a freezing basement. By 9 p.m., the room falls into darkness and quiet, and descending from the over-2-meter bunk in the dark becomes increasingly challenging. But at least, you’re not alone, there’s never even 15 minutes of peace. Add the stuffy air and low oxygen, and no one really sleeps well.
3:00 AM – WAKE-UP
At this crazy hour, after maybe two hours of sleep, we pack our gear for the summit push, leaving the rest on the shelves in the room (even if something goes missing, the loss won’t be significant). A quick breakfast in the dining room: a roll, some cream cheese, and coffee and then we’re ready to go.
4:00 AM – DEPARTURE FOR THE SUMMIT
The early start allows us to avoid strong winds and enjoy the sunrise from the highest point in North Africa, that’s why we set off at such a crazy hour. With headlamps on and dressed only in fleece layers (it’s warmer in the valley with no wind), we begin the ascent. This section is hard to document, it’s completely dark, with only the perfectly starry sky above to break the monotony. The climb is not easy. The trail rises very steeply, with sections resembling Tatras-style scrambling, and loose rocks slide underfoot. Every step requires caution. Due to the altitude, it’s crucial to drink regularly and move at your own pace. Our guide walks well ahead, and I stick to my comfortable rhythm, knowing from previous high-altitude climbs not to rush. Unfortunately, many climbers forget this, and along the trail, we see clear signs of altitude sickness, vomiting and exhaustion, forcing some to turn back. On Kilimanjaro, we hadn’t seen nearly as many people forced to retreat. This is largely the guides’ responsibility, as they often don’t ensure that the slowest climbers start first. The rush to reach the summit for sunrise photos can be dangerous, hurrying up here doesn’t pay off.
SUNRISE AT THE COL
We don’t make it to the summit before sunrise, but we don’t regret it at all. At the col at 4,000 meters, there are few people and the views are absolutely breathtaking.
THE FINAL ASCENT
Now there are only 167 vertical meters left, but they’re not easy. The altitude is taking its toll, and the exposure is significant. Still, reaching the summit now feels inevitable. The surrounding mountains, bathed in the first rays of sunlight, look like they belong to another planet.
JEBEL TOUBKAL 4,167 M A.S.L. – 8:00 AM – SUMMIT ACHIEVED!
The climb from the refuge to the summit takes us about 4 hours in total. It’s much colder at the top than in the valley, but still quite pleasant since there’s no strong wind. We toast with our beloved “Piwniczanka” water, which we brought all the way from Poland.
Although most groups have already left the summit, it’s still pretty chaotic, and getting a photo alone is nearly impossible. That’s another reason not to rush, the later you arrive, the fewer people there are, allowing you to truly enjoy the views.
From the summit, an astonishing panorama unfolds. On a clear day like ours, you can even see the distant plains of Marrakesh and the desert expanses of the Sahara.
DESCENT TO THE REFUGE
Now begins arguably the least pleasant part of the expedition. The thought of descending 2,300 vertical meters is daunting — we remember from Kilimanjaro how sore our legs were afterward. But there’s no way around it; we have to go. The beginning is the most dangerous section, as loose rocks constantly slide underfoot, and the exposure makes your mind race with “what if” scenarios. After my accident on Snowdon , I’m never completely confident, carefully considering every single step.
Slowly, the sun reaches the valley, but it’s still cold, so we stay bundled up. Now we can finally see the trail we had painstakingly climbed. In the darkness, it had looked better and safer.
RETURN TO THE REFUGE
After about 2 hours, we reach the refuge. It’s time for a short break to pack the gear we left earlier. A delicious cup of tea in the sunshine gives us some energy before continuing. Many people at this point choose to stay at the refuge, spreading the trek over three days. For the legs, that’s definitely easier, and it also allows for exploring another nearby peak. On the other hand, the thought of staying in a refuge where sleeping is so difficult isn’t very appealing. We’re glad to have the option to return to Marrakesh, though we’re already quite tired. The longest section of the descent is still ahead.
THE RETURN TREK
Although the same landscapes accompanied us on the ascent, the descent offers a different perspective. The mountains are also lit differently, making them appear almost transformed.
LUNCH IN THE COMPANY OF THE DJINN
After another stop for fresh juices and a tricky descent through dusty switchbacks (it had looked better on the way up), we reach the village for lunch. A quick souvenir Toubkal T-shirt shopping (I didn’t see these in Marrakesh) and then another delicious meal. It’s so peaceful and enjoyable that we’d love to stay, but unfortunately, the journey isn’t over yet.
DESCENT TO IMLIL
Fatigue has reached its peak. The knees and thighs ache, and most of all, the toes hurt from constant pressure.
The checkpoint is now beautifully bathed in sunlight. Just the day before, the entire valley at this altitude had still been in shadow.
The last switchbacks and the village above the plateau are similarly illuminated by the sunlight.
The joy is immense, as our driver is already waiting for us below. We say goodbye to the organizer and our guide and head back to the chaos of Marrakesh, finally ready to rest.
HISTORY AND FUN FACTS
THE FIRST ASCENT
The first documented ascent of Toubkal was made in 1923 by René de Segonzac, Hubert Dolbeau, and Marquis de Flotte. Since then, the mountain has gained enormous popularity among travelers and climbers from around the world.
NAME OF THE SUMMIT
The name “Jabal Toubkal” in Arabic simply means “Mount Toubkal.” Despite its height, the peak is relatively accessible, making it one of the most attainable 4,000-meter mountains in the world.
THE LEGEND OF CHAMHAROUCH
Long ago, before humans settled in the Atlas valleys, these mountains were inhabited by spirits and djinns beings made of fire and air, invisible to the human eye. Among them, the most powerful was Chamharouch, the king of all djinns. He was said to be a wise and just ruler, governing the spirits living in caves, streams, and rocky crevices. Chamharouch could take many forms: sometimes a strong warrior in white robes, other times a white dog guarding the entrance to the Mizane Valley. One day, the first Berbers arrived, seeking a place to settle. Chamharouch was initially suspicious, but over time he recognized their courage and humility toward nature. He then decided to protect them, becoming the guardian spirit of these mountains. Over time, people began to offer thanks with gifts — milk, bread, dates, and sometimes even sacrificial animals. They believed Chamharouch could heal both body and soul and that his power could ward off evil spirits. Years later, when the saintly marabout who spoke of his name passed away, people built his tomb beneath a huge white boulder. Since then, it is said that the spirit of Chamharouch never left. He still dwells in the mountains, listening to the pleas of pilgrims and travelers passing through his valley.